Boxerworks.com

gspd wrote: ↑Thu Sep 01, 2022 7:36 pm That's your starter relay clicking when you push the start button, should be easy to find it.

First thing is to check that you didn't accidentally disconnect a wire at the starter solenoid itself, or at the relay.
If it's not disconnected, check (with a test light) if it has power when you press the starter button.

The wire that goes to the right side of the board is a live wire that connects to full unfused battery power at the starter. It appears to be unnecessary in this installation (as per video you posted) although It could have been used as a short cut for the positive side battery wire from the module.
For the record, I wouldn't let that guy near my bike.

From experience....Be sure your new module is well grounded and in a well ventilated location or it won't last long.

gspd wrote: ↑Thu Sep 01, 2022 7:36 pmFor the record, I wouldn't let that guy near my bike.

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri Sep 02, 2022 8:59 am Agree with GSPD. The click is definitely the starter relay. The problem is in the feed between the ignition switch up to (and including) the solenoid.

My advice would be to work back from the solenoid. Use your test light or meter to check for volts at the end of the thin black wire on the solenoid when you press the starter button. If there is battery voltage (or thereabouts), then the solenoid is faulty. If there isn't, move back to the starter relay and identify the other end of that wire and check for voltage in the same way at that point. If there is, then the wire or connection is faulty. If not, then the relay is probably dead.

If you're using a test lamp with a filament bulb (not a LED), you can make the tests with the wires disconnected because the current through the lamp will be sufficient to show up a poor connection. If, however, you are using a LED test light or a multimeter, it is important for the wires to be connected as you make the test becasue the low current required by these test methods can show a false good reading when in fact there is a high resistance connection.

In passing, I'm not very impressed by that unit. It seems to me that the cherging output wire (Orange wire) is far to thin for the current it might be required to carry (up to 20 amps). Compare it to the wire that normally connects between the diode board and the solenoid (the one you have 'snipped and taped') to see what I mean.

Also have to say that 'crimp' connectors in a charge circuit and the reg/rec installed (sort of) in the tool tray are not going to lead to a long life for the thing (although, the poor connections and thin wire might reduce the output enough to limit the heat that isn't being carried away ) Not the best video ever!

Rob

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri Sep 02, 2022 8:59 am My advice would be to work back from the solenoid. Use your test light or meter to check for volts at the end of the thin black wire on the solenoid when you press the starter button. If there is battery voltage (or thereabouts), then the solenoid is faulty. If there isn't, move back to the starter relay and identify the other end of that wire and check for voltage in the same way at that point. If there is, then the wire or connection is faulty. If not, then the relay is probably dead.

CHEWY1219 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 02, 2022 3:28 pm

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri Sep 02, 2022 8:59 am My advice would be to work back from the solenoid. Use your test light or meter to check for volts at the end of the thin black wire on the solenoid when you press the starter button. If there is battery voltage (or thereabouts), then the solenoid is faulty. If there isn't, move back to the starter relay and identify the other end of that wire and check for voltage in the same way at that point. If there is, then the wire or connection is faulty. If not, then the relay is probably dead.

One more thing...so I am clear, it's the small black wire running from the relay to the solenoid that is the main one for initiating the starter?