Determining mileage

[radarcarve]

I have a question about the mileage on 1970 /5 bikes and newer. Since they have odometers that top out at 100,000 miles, is there a way to determine with some assurance the actual mileage? So many bikes have 50,000, 65,000, etc. I figure that they actually have 150,000, and 165,000 miles (or more!). Can there be some way to look at some component on the bike (especially on the engine) that would be a good indicator? I mean, without a tear down. I was offered a '74 that was claimed to have a mileage of 6,500, and original tires. It sure was suspect, especially because the tires were claimed to be original, but were an off brand. Would have been nice to run some kind of inspection to determine if it were 6500, or 106500.

[daz]

Like this?

[ME 109]

The favorite mileage revealer is the brake pedal. The little raised pyramids slowly wear down.
Someone might have a pic handy.
Also foot peg rubbers.
Rear spline, although not conclusive.

[khittner1]

The rear brake pedal inspection may be a good, non-invasive tell-tale, but it might not matter that much, Radar. A '74 with 150 miles/yr. on it may well need as much labor and parts input (seals, hydraulics, internal corrosion--oh, my!) as one that's been more regularly ridden, particularly if it hasn't had Barber Museum storage. Post some pics.

[Toga]

970,300klm foot peg rubber & brake pedal

[ME 109]

265,000 klm pedal.

[She'llbe]

265,000 klm pedal.

I see you don't use your rear brake much Jeff. What does the front brake lever look like?
We don't want to stop, we want to GO!!!
"We don't need no stinkin' brakes!"

[Garnet]

265,000 klm pedal.

"We don't need no stinkin' brakes!"

Jeff seems to use Joeys for that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpcz1qcxYuA

[dwerbil]

265,000 klm pedal.

Looks like that'd work for a good meat tenderizer while in the out-back.

[PITAPan]

I have a question about the mileage on 1970 /5 bikes and newer. Since they have odometers that top out at 100,000 miles, is there a way to determine with some assurance the actual mileage? So many bikes have 50,000, 65,000, etc. I figure that they actually have 150,000, and 165,000 miles (or more!). Can there be some way to look at some component on the bike (especially on the engine) that would be a good indicator? I mean, without a tear down. I was offered a '74 that was claimed to have a mileage of 6,500, and original tires. It sure was suspect, especially because the tires were claimed to be original, but were an off brand. Would have been nice to run some kind of inspection to determine if it were 6500, or 106500.

A quick look at the splines at the rear wheel will sort 6500 vs 106500.

The guy feeding you a line about the tires says he's a flake. I tend to be somewhat unpleasant with those sorts of folks---before walking away. They have just devalued the deal below what they are going to take so nothing to lose (unless I buy it).

looking at the title can be helpful. If it's a barn find getting flipped it will show up there.

mileage doesn't say that much, especially if it is very low. If the bike has been well cared for the owner will be proud of this and will be showing off maintenance records and reciepts. On the other hand a low miles bike that has been sitting with a carb off for 10 years in a shed will clean up ok and start with a new battery. But there is rust pitting in the bores and possibly other critical areas (cam). It'll smoke more on the left on starting but then they all do. The compression can even be decent, but the motor won't last very long. It's a very expensive proposition despite the mileage.

You can remove a spark plug and look at the lips of the valves at TDC on the intake and exhaust stroke. 6500 miles and they should look like new. If you want to see a bad one I got one sitting around.

Also remove the rocker cover (have a drip pan) and look for the amount of brown deposits on the head around the exhaust valve spring. Lots = worn guides and valve work coming up. Not a 6500 mile engine.

On a '74 I would do both these checks on the right cylinder.

If the owner balks at removing the rear wheel, a spark plug or a rocker cover, walk away----or deduct 2500+ from the price.

Compression check is always nice but will look more elaborate to the uninitiated. There are also things to observe as the seller starts it up for you on your arrival (it better be stone cold too!). It's a long treatise. Get the VW book and read the section on how to buy a VW. ( http://www.amazon.com/How-Keep-Your-Vol ... agen+alive Similar engine and the basics apply. Get a cheap used copy unless you collect books.

There are a bunch of other simple checks. They are not concerned so much with establishing the mileage as the condition of the bike---how it has been operated and cared for. With good maintenance the wear intervals on major components are well known. With poor maintenance even a low miles bike can need major work.

On the bright side, you can do most of the work yourself. if the price is cheap enough, you have or can buy the tools, and you don't have anything really expensive (parts wise) that needs replacing, you can get a nice ride for not a lot of cash and a fair amount of wrench turning.

Or you can buy one in good condition and just ride it.

My feeling is there are a rather lot of complete suckers looking for airheads these days. They are being trolled for by various flippers and exploitative sellers. This dyad is a newer phenomenon fueled by a different type of rider looking for airheads. So more than ever, caveat emptor.


As an afterthought: 40 year old bike with only 6500 miles? Less than 162 miles per year. If it was maintained, that's a huge amount of maintenance over the years for virtually no riding. What's wrong with this picture? Could happen I suppose, but it's a pretty long shot.