Upgrade to Floating Rotors - Save $$$ (How To)

[0m3nc0w]

Floating rotors allow the disk to self center between the brake pads and result in a couple of benefits. They will reduce distortion from thermal stresses induced by uneven thermal expansion under load (less warpage). They will also extend the life of your disk rotors and pads by forcing more even wear. If you need to replace your rotors, have the right tools, and 45 minutes it's sensible to make this conversion for both performance and financial reasons.

If you have this type of brake you are in luck:





Here are the Ferrodo Parts:







Assuming you have the tools to remove your wheel, the only tools you need for this conversion are a hammer, a punch



an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and some WD40 or penetrating oil.

Remove the front wheel, never rest the brake disk on the ground, it will warp resulting in a pulse in the brake lever when braking. Rest the rim on blocks of wood so the brake rotors (disks) are not touching anything.

I would guess you can do this procedure without removing the wheel, however you would need a friend to squeeze the brake while you are unscrewing the allen bolts that fasten the rotor carriers to the wheel.

Place shims of some sort between the brake pads so the pistons don't get accidentally pressed out of the calipers if the brake lever is inadvertently squeezed with the disk rotors removed. Paint stir sticks are the perfect width.

Carefully cut the rivet heads off with an angle grinder fitted with a cutoff wheel



soak the rivet heads on the other side with ATF/Acetone, penetrating oil or WD40 for several min.

Pop the rivets out while bracing the disk so the carrier is not touching the ground (so as not to bend or warp it).



Assemble the new rotors on your old carriers:



Make sure to orient the fasteners correctly:



The fasteners have nylon lock nuts, tighten them down in a criss-cross pattern until they just begin to bite. Go back and repeat the pattern tightening them down wrist tight. Finally repeat the pattern torquing each to 60 inch pounds. Do not disassemble after engaging the nylon lock nuts with the threads. Locking nuts should not be reused if removed as they loose some of their locking ability, not good on vital parts you don't want coming loose. If you disassemble them, replace the nylon locking nuts with new ones before reassembly and installation.

Enjoy!

[Airbear]

Thanks, Om.

Could you please let us know the cost of the Ferodo rotors? A link to a supplier would be really useful.

[0m3nc0w]

Yep sorry I should have included that. I ordered mine from Ted Porter at The Beemer Shop. Super nice guy and a wealth of information on old BMW bikes. If you catch him at the right time he'll talk your ear off about anything airhead related.

The part number for the Ferodo floating rotors is FMD0080 at Ted's Beemer Shop ($159.00 ea). The part number on the actual package is FMD0080R. It comes with all the hardware/fasteners fort the conversion.

Here is the contact info, you can email Ted directly:

TedPorter@BeemerShop.com

Ted Porter's Beemer Shop
http://www.BeemerShop.com
5100 Scotts Vallely Dr., Unit #100
Scotts Valley, CA 95066
(831) 438-1100

But if you call him and tell him his voice sounds exactly like Jeff Daniels and that the 0m3nc0w (pronounced Omen-Cow) sent you he might give you a discount.

[Airbear]

Thanks for that, Omen.

[0m3nc0w]

Here are the direct links to the Ferodo floating rotors:

For 1974-84 all models:
http://www.beemershop.com/Merchant5/mer ... e=FMD0080R

For most 85-on models:
http://www.beemershop.com/Merchant5/mer ... e=FMD0081R

[0m3nc0w]

Here is the final look, SWEET

[Rob Frankham]

It might be worth looking around at other brand names. I have fitted visually identical discs to my R100RS, sold in the UK under the brand name Kyoto. They have been fine (although one did warp after a bit and I had to replace it).

The only thing I would say is that I don't classify them as fully floating discs, rather semi floating as they can only move one way from the rest position.

Rob

[Rob Frankham]

One other thing to watch out for...

When I looked at a UK site offering the Ferodo disks, it quotes the applicable models as being effectively all models 1978 to 1988. Don't know if this is from the retailer or Fedrodo but, if the latter, it will likely be duplicated elsewhere. As you are probably aware, the discs fitted to Monoshock models ('85 to '95) are very different to those fitted to Twinshock models ('74 to '84). I have notified the UK dealer for what it's worth. There is no way that a disc that will fit a twinshock can be used on a Monoshock.

Rob

[SteveD]

...I have fitted visually identical discs to my R100RS, sold in the UK under the brand name Kyoto.

Got a link Rob? wemoto has 'em here in Oz for $OZ141.
Looks a much cheaper way than replacing the lot.

[Rob Frankham]

...I have fitted visually identical discs to my R100RS, sold in the UK under the brand name Kyoto.

Got a link Rob? wemoto has 'em here in Oz for $OZ141.
Looks a much cheaper way than replacing the lot.

M & P lists the Ferodo discs at GBP £100. The Kyoto version is listed by Wemoto in the UK at £77. They appear identical and both are described as 'High precision laser cut high carbon stainless'.

I've used the Kyoto version with good results but not the Ferodo version.
Rob