Indicator warning light constantly on in instrument panel

[Rob Frankham]

Hi Gents ,
I've seen a similar mod using two 30v 5a diodes and a switch to create a hazard flash option on systems without that facility.
That takes it's power from the lamp side of the flasher relay with a switch inline then it links to the RH indicators side via a diode 30v 5A and same for LH side via another 30v 5A diode but you needed to add it's own indicator light .
But that was for a 3 pin relay .

I'd be interested to see the diagram for that... I can't see how it would work but it would be an interesting mod if it did...

Rob

[gspd]

Hi Gents ,
I've seen a similar mod using two 30v 5a diodes and a switch to create a hazard flash option on systems without that facility..

The cheapest and easiest way to add 4-way hazard flashers to any vehicle is to connect the left side to the right side with a switch.
If that switch is 'on', activating either side turn signal will cause all 4 indicators to flash.
The turn signal relays can handle the extra load.
I hot wired my flashers to work even with the ignition off, and all my bulbs are LED; battery drain is negligible even if the 4-ways are left flashing overnight.

[kmisterk]

Power to left turn signal is BLUE/RED
Power to right turn signal is BLUE/BLACK
Power to dash indicator is BLACK/WHITE

Do a bit of tracing to determine why the BLACK/WHITE always has power.
Maybe something is shorted or wrongly connected.

If there is actually a faulty circuit inside the relay and you don't want to replace the relay, connect the BLACK/WHITE to the flasher feeds.
You'll need two 5W diodes (basically a one-way valve) so the left side doesn't feed back to the right side and vice-versa.
These diodes can be had for pennies at any electronics store.

This will work, but wait to see if RobF can devise a simpler solution.

where are you able to still find diodes at a brick-and-mortar electronics store?

Asking sincerely, I'd love to know.

[Rob Frankham]

You can buy diodes on line quite easily... they are very very cheap... I don't know about high street retailers in the US but there are very few electronic component shops here in the UK now. Thanks Amazon and Ebay!

FWIW, 5 watt diodes are not necessary. They'll work well enough but 1 watt diodes will work just as well and will be considerably smaller physically. If you look for a diode of the type 1N4002 you can't go wrong but any rectifier diode with a peak reverse voltage rating of 50 volts or more will do perfectly well.

Rob

[seriouseng]

Evening Gents,

As per Robs request here is the schematic for the mod re hazards. its from the Haynes Electrical tech manual.

Hazard option.PNG (548.13 KiB) Viewed 766 times

Rob did you manage to find that 3 pin relay mod info , i agree about lack of UK suppliers these days for electronic bits , Maplins is a miss , RS components are good but your stuck with their pack sizes / volumes.
cheers Kev

[Rob Frankham]

Thanks for that. It's woth noting that the flasher relay would also need to be changed for a 'hazard' flasher relay. It won't work with just any OEM relay.

Rob

[Rob Frankham]

Thanks for that. It's worth noting that the flasher relay would also need to be changed for a 'hazard' flasher relay. It won't work with just any OEM relay.

Rob

[gspd]

Thanks for that. It's woth noting that the flasher relay would also need to be changed for a 'hazard' flasher relay. It won't work with just any OEM relay.

Rob

I don't understand why that setup won't work as shown.
Take away the thick black added-on wires and you have a stock setup, right?
If the stock setup works, the add-on thick stuff should work.
The relay doesn't know if your connecting to one side at a time with the flasher switch, or to both sides via the added 'hazard' switch.
Obviously, wired this way the flashers (and 4-ways) only work with he ignition 'on'.

The often problematic (and expensive) OE hazard flasher setup found on some airhead models can only be activated when the ignition is on. Once the 4-ways are activated (with the key on) the ignition can be shut off and the key removed and they will keep flashing until the voltage drops to approximately 11 volts. They can be turned off any time, but the ignition has to be turned back on to re-activate them.
I suppose this was so you could leave your broken 'flashing' bike unattended on the side of the road without the key in it while going to look for help and not return to a dead battery. Only the person with the key could turn on the flashers, but anybody walking by could turn them off.

Now everybody (except me) has a cell phone so there is usually no need to leave a bike unattended, just call and wait for help to arrive.

[Rob Frankham]

Thanks for that. It's woth noting that the flasher relay would also need to be changed for a 'hazard' flasher relay. It won't work with just any OEM relay.

Rob

I don't understand why that setup won't work as shown.
Take away the thick black added-on wires and you have a stock setup, right?
If the stock setup works, the add-on thick stuff should work.
The relay doesn't know if your connecting to one side at a time with the flasher switch, or to both sides via the added 'hazard' switch.
Obviously, wired this way the flashers (and 4-ways) only work with he ignition 'on'.

With most traditional flashers, the rate of flash is dependant on the value of the load. A flasher unit which is designed to work with 2 x 21 watt bulbs and a repeater will not work properly with 4 x 21 watt bulbs (and a repeater). what will actually happen depends on the flasher unit... it could flash at the wrong rate, it could not flash at all or, in some cases, it might even destroy the flasher unit. What it is highly unlikely to do is flash at a rate withing the specs. The answer is to replace the stock unit with a flasher that is designed for use with a hazard flasher system.

Rob