That will narrow the search. It will show solonoid and starter are functioning.
Ooh, make sure bike is in neutral or of it will go down the road without you.
Removal of Starter motor
Re: Removal of Starter motor
How about jumping a wire direct from battery positive to starter positive (big fat terminal) It should kick as soon as contact is made.
That will narrow the search. It will show solonoid and starter are functioning.
Ooh, make sure bike is in neutral or of it will go down the road without you.
That will narrow the search. It will show solonoid and starter are functioning.
Ooh, make sure bike is in neutral or of it will go down the road without you.
Last edited by ME 109 on Sun Jul 15, 2012 2:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Lord of the Bings
-
boxertwinjeff
- Posts: 389
- Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:56 pm
- Location: Cairns Qld, Australia.
Re: Removal of Starter motor
I remember when I first bought the bike, the starter button would work so I used to kickstart it
till last year when it suddenly started working again.
till last year when it suddenly started working again.
1973 R1000/5 LWB
1976 R90S Silver Smoke
1976 R90S Silver Smoke
Re: Removal of Starter motor
boxertwinjeff wrote:I remember when I first bought the bike, the starter button would work so I used to kickstart it
till last year when it suddenly started working again.
Aha! the plot thickens. You may have put your finger on it.
Maybe unscrew the start switch and try to connect the start wires.....briefly.
Lord of the Bings
-
boxertwinjeff
- Posts: 389
- Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:56 pm
- Location: Cairns Qld, Australia.
Re: Removal of Starter motor
Theres a plan,,, more like go right through my shed and out the otherside!ME 109 wrote:How about jumping a wire direct from battery positive to starter positive (big fat terminal) It should kick as soon as contact is made.
That will narrow the search. It will show solonoid and starter are functioning.
Ooh, make sure bike is in neutral or of it will go down the road without you.
1973 R1000/5 LWB
1976 R90S Silver Smoke
1976 R90S Silver Smoke
-
boxertwinjeff
- Posts: 389
- Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:56 pm
- Location: Cairns Qld, Australia.
Re: Removal of Starter motor
I think we may have it!, yeh I unscrewed the Start button switch and reconnected the wires....Bingo! ignition.
appears just a loose wire muzzled Wolfy, I had a mental block on that earlier problem!
Anyway, I'll check it a few times in the morning before I reassemble the bike!! he he
I suppose its all good practice in finding my way around in there!
Thanks for your help ME.
appears just a loose wire muzzled Wolfy, I had a mental block on that earlier problem!
Anyway, I'll check it a few times in the morning before I reassemble the bike!! he he
I suppose its all good practice in finding my way around in there!
Thanks for your help ME.
1973 R1000/5 LWB
1976 R90S Silver Smoke
1976 R90S Silver Smoke
Re: Removal of Starter motor
No worries at all Jeff, glad I could help.boxertwinjeff wrote:Thanks for your help ME.
It's good to help for a change, these days I mostly just get to be a shit stirrer.
Lord of the Bings
Re: Removal of Starter motor
I had the same problem recently with Beryl (R65)
It turned out that the starter relay was blown.
I dont think its your alternator
To check this, make sure your bike is in neutral, remove the spark plug leads (so the damn thing doesnt start up on you, then remove the starter cover.
To test, with the ignition on and the kill switch set to run, grab a large screwdriver and bridge out the starter solenoid terminals.
If the starter motor turns over, the problem is with the starter circuit, if not it is a problem with the starter motor or starter solenoid, remove the starter motor and take it to an auto electrician.
to test the starter circuit, pull the starter relay (usually a silver box). to make sure, check the wires coming into the base against the circuit diagram, then with your ignition on and engine kill switch set to run, connect a multimeter probe (set on continuity test) to the load side of the relay contact and the other probe to the terminal on the starter motor solenoid. If you get a tone, that means that your starter circuit is ok.
Then check the wire going from the starter relay base to the solenoid using a probe at each end. If you get a tone, then that means that all the wiring is ok and your starter relay is stuffed.
NOW, its decision time. You can go for an original starter relay, which is bloody expensive for a SPST relay) or, you can go to your friendly auto elec and pick a basic SPST (single pole, single throw) relay for about $10. The reason why all those funny diodes are in the original relay is because they make all the bullshit safety cutouts ( clutch switch, neutral switch) work. So long as you remember to put the damn thing in neutral and pull in the clutch, you can do without them.
the relay you buy from the auto elec, should just plug in and SHAZAM, the old beast will jump back to life again.
Hope this helps.........
ComaBoy
It turned out that the starter relay was blown.
I dont think its your alternator
To check this, make sure your bike is in neutral, remove the spark plug leads (so the damn thing doesnt start up on you, then remove the starter cover.
To test, with the ignition on and the kill switch set to run, grab a large screwdriver and bridge out the starter solenoid terminals.
If the starter motor turns over, the problem is with the starter circuit, if not it is a problem with the starter motor or starter solenoid, remove the starter motor and take it to an auto electrician.
to test the starter circuit, pull the starter relay (usually a silver box). to make sure, check the wires coming into the base against the circuit diagram, then with your ignition on and engine kill switch set to run, connect a multimeter probe (set on continuity test) to the load side of the relay contact and the other probe to the terminal on the starter motor solenoid. If you get a tone, that means that your starter circuit is ok.
Then check the wire going from the starter relay base to the solenoid using a probe at each end. If you get a tone, then that means that all the wiring is ok and your starter relay is stuffed.
NOW, its decision time. You can go for an original starter relay, which is bloody expensive for a SPST relay) or, you can go to your friendly auto elec and pick a basic SPST (single pole, single throw) relay for about $10. The reason why all those funny diodes are in the original relay is because they make all the bullshit safety cutouts ( clutch switch, neutral switch) work. So long as you remember to put the damn thing in neutral and pull in the clutch, you can do without them.
the relay you buy from the auto elec, should just plug in and SHAZAM, the old beast will jump back to life again.
Hope this helps.........
ComaBoy
Re: Removal of Starter motor
oops, didnt read this, forget my lastboxertwinjeff wrote:I think we may have it!, yeh I unscrewed the Start button switch and reconnected the wires....Bingo! ignition.
appears just a loose wire muzzled Wolfy, I had a mental block on that earlier problem!
Anyway, I'll check it a few times in the morning before I reassemble the bike!! he he
I suppose its all good practice in finding my way around in there!
Thanks for your help ME.
CB
Re: Removal of Starter motor
A little comment on removing the starter motor:
The job they did is actually brilliant! If you use a socket, the two main attaching bolts will come out much easier than you would expect. I forget which set-up I use because I don't do it very often but when I finally get to it and find the right socket (13mm) it actually fits where it looks like it wouldn't. As for that front one that Jeff mentioned, that's a pain. I think I usually replace mine with an allen head bolt so it's easier to start. Most of the fancy starters are smaller and don't use that bolt, another plus for them.
Chuey
The job they did is actually brilliant! If you use a socket, the two main attaching bolts will come out much easier than you would expect. I forget which set-up I use because I don't do it very often but when I finally get to it and find the right socket (13mm) it actually fits where it looks like it wouldn't. As for that front one that Jeff mentioned, that's a pain. I think I usually replace mine with an allen head bolt so it's easier to start. Most of the fancy starters are smaller and don't use that bolt, another plus for them.
Chuey
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Rob Frankham
- Posts: 1224
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:11 pm
- Location: Scotland UK, 20 miles from civilisation up a dead end road!
- Contact:
Re: Removal of Starter motor
Jeff,
Basic trouble shooting of the boxer starter is very simple... this will at least give you something to tell the tech, even if you can't solve it yourself.
The best way to go is to remove the starter cover and 'hot wire' the starter. Simply go to the front of the solenoid (thats the round bit attached to the side of the starter). You will find three contacts... One large ring connector that is attached to the big wire from the battery, One large ring terminal that attaches to a braid wire which disappears into the starter and a small spade connector.
Initially ignore the ring connectors and pull off the spade connector. Attach a wire to the positive terminal on your battery then touch the other end to the spade connector on the solenoid (It's probably better not to have the ignition on at this time).
If the starter is working, you will get a loud click and the motor will turn over (but not start 'coz' the ignitions off
).
If there is a loud click but no attempt to turn over, your starter motor itself is suspect and, is there is no click at all, the solenoid is suspect.
In the first instance (i.e. the starter turns) you need to trace the circuitry from the starter button via the starter relay.
Be aware that the starter relay fitted to /5 models is a bit of a strange beast and incorporates electronicals to (not very succesfully) stop the starter engaging when the starter button is pressed but the engine is already running. All later models have different and much simpler systems. Your auto tech may not be aware of this and may be grateful for your telling him.
Hope that helps
Rob
Basic trouble shooting of the boxer starter is very simple... this will at least give you something to tell the tech, even if you can't solve it yourself.
The best way to go is to remove the starter cover and 'hot wire' the starter. Simply go to the front of the solenoid (thats the round bit attached to the side of the starter). You will find three contacts... One large ring connector that is attached to the big wire from the battery, One large ring terminal that attaches to a braid wire which disappears into the starter and a small spade connector.
Initially ignore the ring connectors and pull off the spade connector. Attach a wire to the positive terminal on your battery then touch the other end to the spade connector on the solenoid (It's probably better not to have the ignition on at this time).
If the starter is working, you will get a loud click and the motor will turn over (but not start 'coz' the ignitions off
).If there is a loud click but no attempt to turn over, your starter motor itself is suspect and, is there is no click at all, the solenoid is suspect.
In the first instance (i.e. the starter turns) you need to trace the circuitry from the starter button via the starter relay.
Be aware that the starter relay fitted to /5 models is a bit of a strange beast and incorporates electronicals to (not very succesfully) stop the starter engaging when the starter button is pressed but the engine is already running. All later models have different and much simpler systems. Your auto tech may not be aware of this and may be grateful for your telling him.
Hope that helps
Rob