Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Discuss all things 1970 & later Airheads right here.
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Airbear
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by Airbear »

jagarra wrote: Sun Mar 20, 2022 10:45 am Beautifull work Charlie, I am really impressed with the new electronics and the woodwork. Having a way to make plastic parts is clearly a plus in your conversions, solves issues with a very nice design. Brunhilde is looking pretty elegant.

cheers
Thanks Jagarra. Yes, it's very handy to have the little 3D printing factory on the bench in the office.

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Hm, that photo was taken in March 2016, so I've been playing with this stuff for 7 years, not 5 as previously stated. Perhaps I've lost a couple of years somewhere ...
The machine has been remarkably reliable so far, barring the occasional power outage. Printing takes time - the bucket took 45 hours and each 'ear' takes 25, but I'm a patient sort of chap.
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
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Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
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Airbear
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by Airbear »

I'm looking forward to responding to GSPD's comments and questions but my number one computer - the one with all the data files - has fallen off its perch, turned up its toes, died, has become an ex- computer, etc.

Later, ok?
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
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Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
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Airbear
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by Airbear »

gspd wrote: Sun Mar 20, 2022 3:51 pm
Airbear wrote: Sat Mar 19, 2022 9:22 pm I’ve always felt that the OEM side panels were a disappointing attempt at a “cover-up”. They seem to be aimed at hiding the fact that BMWs carry a big, sensible battery but in the process they hide a nicely curved frame member that should be seen and celebrated.
OK, you got me. Although I haven't seen what they look like directly from either side (pics please), your side covers do 'integrate' better than the BMW ones, aesthetically and organically speaking.
Taking into account your electrical prowess, you should take the aesthetics a step further.
Next time you're bored, figure a way to hide that main (not nicely curved) ground wire . It contrasts with the frame curve you are proud of emphasizing and detracts from your hand-crafted side cover. I routed mine over the top, in through the starter cover, and grounded it directly to the engine block case via a starter mounting bolt. That keeps it out of sight and also provides a (theoretically) better electrical path. If that's too much trouble, at least reposition it so it sort of follows the frame curve a bit.

Questions for Airbear...
1- Why do you need a transmission speed sensor circuit with a GPS speedometer?
2- What's sticking out of your speedo cable hole?
3- I don't see a clutch switch in your left bar wiring and the neutral switch only seems to trigger the neutral light.
Is the Mo-unit smart enough to prevent the bike from starting in gear unless the clutch is disengaged?
Thanks GS. I like the idea of running the big ground cable into the starter space and I'll be doing that when it's the next thing to do.

In answer to your questions:

1. The speed sensor is so the Mo-unit knows the kilometerage for the maintenance log and a few other functions . It can't read the GPS speedo. As it happens, this function is not working yet. The Mo-unit came with a sensor and magnet that can be fixed to a wheel, like a bicycle speedo. I fitted this but could not get a signal, so tried a gearbox sensor which also didn't work. I'll have to take this up with Motogadget.

2. The speedo cable hole has been plugged with a violin peg jammed into a bit of fuel hose. Violin pegs have many good uses on motorcycles:

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3. No, the Mo-unit is not smart enough to prevent the bike from starting in gear unless the clutch is disengaged, but I am.

Here are a couple of side views of the old girl:

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BRUN 05.jpg
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Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Image

Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
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Airbear
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by Airbear »

Moving along ...

I've barely touched on some of the features of the Gadget. Here are a couple of pages from the manual:

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The manual is available here: https://motogadget.com/shop/media/downl ... en_2.4.pdf

More later ...
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
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Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by kmisterk »

Wow. I'm now wanting to do a conversion to the mo.unit on my r100. DO you have the STL file for the headlamp casing?

Also, I may have missed it, but did you link to the cluster you used? This is such a cool idea, and I'd *love* to get this going on my bike.
Technology and Web enthusiast. I also like motorcycles.

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hal
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by hal »

Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing!
Hal

'74 R90/6
'97 R850R
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by MotoD »

Fantastic work mate. Currently building an 81 R100 and just finished up my M-unit blue install as well. I went with the M-button inside the bars. Was a major pain getting all the wires in and soldered up but it’s clean and works great.

I installed the motogadget iPhone app last night and synced it to the bike. It is awesome! You can control the entire bike with your phone. Even setup remote starting if of course your choke and gas is already on ☺️
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by gspd »

MotoD wrote: Wed Mar 30, 2022 11:44 am I installed the motogadget iPhone app last night and synced it to the bike. It is awesome! You can control the entire bike with your phone. Even setup remote starting if of course your choke and gas is already on ☺️
I'm all for revamping old electrical circuits, and truly appreciate the workmanship and cleanliness of Airbear's installation.
OTOH - I'm not aware of any serious problems with a good condition stock BMW airhead electrical system that converting to all LED lights won't solve.

As far as remote starting a airhead (or any other bike), why would you even want to?
THE CLUTCH SHOULD ALWAYS BE DISENGAGED BEFORE STARTING ANY BIKE that way the starter motor does not have to turn over the transmission gears and shafts AND the bike won't lurch forward in case it was left in gear.
Also, with our airheads, the 'choke' should be turned off as soon as the engine fires and the bike should be ridden away immediately.
Idling with the choke on, or even partially on, is NOT good. Leaving the gas taps on when parked is also not a good idea.

I'm obviously old school, but seriously, the very last thing I need or want to do in my life is to 'control' my classic (simple by choice) Airhead via a cell phone.
Maybe that'll be my cue that it's time for me to hang up my leathers for good.
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My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by jagarra »

Charlie's and my R90 were built in the first month of production, about 70 numbers apart in serial numbers. It's interesting to see how he has incorporated this new electronic operating system in controlling all the electronics and new functions in the bike. He has done a pretty admirable job in my estimation. Even though it is a neat concept, I am keeping mine stock and simple, it is just easier for me to deal with issues.
1974 R90/6 built 9/73
1987 BMW K75S
1994 BMW R1100RS
1964 T100SR Triumph
1986 Honda XL600R
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Re: Mo-Unit Blue, re-wiring and 3D printed bits, etc

Post by MotoD »

I do agree in most cases. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. I do love the new technical upgrades as I’ve done on this R100. I even did a remote master cylinder for the new dual Brembos. I’ll get a build thread up soon. Again, great work to you!
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